lunes, 9 de marzo de 2015

Sending Mode ON: Chulilla and Cuenca

It seems like all the training is really starting to pay off.
I spent my last two weekends between Chulilla and Cuenca, and I cannot be more happy with the results. I know that sometimes the results are not the best thing to look at, and normally I don't pay so much attention on what number I climb, but this two weekends I felt more stronger than ever in any strenght aspect I can think about!

Starting the Upper Crux of "Nikita" 8b, Cuenca
All Started two weeks ago with a two days trip to Chulilla with Moni, Alfon and Inés. It was my first time there and I got really amazed with the potential that this area has. At saturday all began quite well. We went to "la pared de enfrente" sector, and after warming up, I started the day onsighting "el Ramallar" 8a, that being realistic felt not much harder than a 7c, even if the route is a "King line". Convinced by Inés, I moved to "el Infierno" 8b, to put up the draws and give it an overview. The route looked like it was exactly my style, even that, just I started to climb I broke a hold on the entrance crux (which is clearly the hardest part). With a desesperate second go, I tried to solve the bouldery and crimpy entrance crux. Even that, I was unable to find the right beta, so we left the quickdraws on the route to return next day with the idea of taking them off.

At Sunday something went different. We went up to the sector just to take down the draws, but encouraged again by Inés I tried to solve the crux and Eureka! I finded the right beta! Just I went down and after resting a little bit, I gave it my 4th try and I sended "el Infierno", 8b!!!
Psyched with the good feelings, I decided to give an onsight try to "Entre dos Caminos" 8a, and after the most pumpy and redlining try of my life, I sended my first onsight 8a! Thanks for the patience!

Moving to the last weekend, we went to Cuenca and clearly I still had the luck on my side. At saturday with Guille and Paulo, I went to "el sombretivo" sector with the Idea of trying a route I was projecting my last two visits there. After a good first try, and a second try where I fell on the last move, I sended Nikita 8b on the 3rd go of the day! Really felt the difference between trying this line with good conditions! Thanks Guille for the photos!

Now time to move on, recover my quite damaged finger skin, and think over the Catalan Climbing Championship that will take place in two weeks near my hometown!!

viernes, 27 de febrero de 2015

Rolling around central Spain

It's been a long since I writed my last post. It doesn't mean I'm not climbing or anything. I've been more motivated than ever. The problem is that since I moved to Madrid I didn't had enough time to post anything until today.

Giving a close try on Encore 8a+, Ceüse
Sending Mediterráneo 8a, Sella

I could write a long list of projects, routes and places I have stayed since I returned from Turkey. Sella, Cuenca, Ceüse, Margalef, Montgrony, Montserrat, Ariege ... All of them world class places to write from where you won't gonna return upset... Even that, it would get boring and long to tell all the trips one by one so I will skip it simply posting few photos from the routes I tried hehe ...

Testing my "slabclimber" skills on Pengim Penjam, 8c, Sant Miquel

Climbing Al-Jazeera 8a at night, Calders
Just Stay Updated, for upcoming posts ;)

lunes, 22 de septiembre de 2014

Calders Action Climbing Flick

Check out the last video we produced at JustGoForIt Media. Action Takes Place in Calders. Also don't forget to subscrive on our Youtube Channel, Twitter Acount and Facebook Page to stay tuned on upcoming Flicks or photo sessions!!

sábado, 30 de agosto de 2014

Görüşürüz Emrah

Wish I could start a post telling something about a new climbing trip or a comp.
Wish It wouldn't be about a friend.
Wish It wouldn't be about one of these people for who everybody only can have nice words,
and also wish that my worst wish would never come true.

Even if It was only for a few months, I feel super lucky to have had the opportunity to share 
some moments with You. Thanks for the belays, the methods, the motivation, and your kindness.
Not every day One can find a climbing partner like You.

Görüşürüz Emrah

jueves, 26 de junio de 2014

End of trip: Sarikaya and Aladaglar

Sadly yesterday I said goodbye to the beautiful country that have been my home for the last 5 months. Even if I didn't wanted  was time to return to see again physicaly my people and not through a skype screen. Have been 5 months of non stoping activity. Meeting new people, climbing, studying and discovering super cool new places, and obviously i've been enjoying my last days doing exactly the same.

This time the trip have been to one of the coolest places i've visited in Turkey. Maybe the place with the best sunset i've seen and probably one of the greatest places to climb where alpinism, multipitch, trad and sport climbing go together. This place is Aladaglar, an alpin massif of 3000 m mountains located like hundred kilometers at the north of Adana, where we spent 12 days basically climbing at Kazikli Vadisi and Cimbar valley, without forgetting to make a fast stop just some days before at Sarikaya, where I sent the bouldery arete called Umagumma, a really solid 8a, and Gamze a fucking hard powerfull 7b+ for wich i don't remember the name.

In our 12 days we set our "base camp" in the little town called Demir Kazik at the Ordos Mountain House (So much thanks for letting us stay there!), from where we were able to reach both valleys with not more than 10 minutes of car. My aim this trip was try something harder, to push me a little bit further, and I was super excited with the nice looking of the super big cave located at Kazikli Ali. Unluckly some days before was raining a lot in Aladaglar, so the routes in the cave were super wet and with a lot of mud in the big holds. From this point I started to search for other hard projects in other nice sectors but outside the cave there weren't so much, and the few i checked had bird  nests or bee hives in the holds, so finally I changed my objective to just climb lots of routes. Some of the most notable sends I did where the bouldery and hard Lanet 7c, The super long Trans Aladaglar 7c+, Misyoner another 7c+ that felt really hard, Kirim Kongo 8a and Nebukat nezar 7c+, which felt too easy for the grade and in my opinion are 7c+ and 7c, and the one that I enjoyed the most, and for which i want to congratulate Recep (the bolter) is Master Papets, a 35m 8a "King Line" I was able to climb in my 4th try after sticking the slippy crimp of on the second crux!

Also Gamze sent hard routes these days like the Cehennem bekçisi 7b+ (really hard in my opinion) and the physical Nebukat Nezar 7c+ after testing some interesting tricks to dry the crux hold!

In Cimbar valley, we only climbed there one day, but better to don't tell my disaster day. Let's just say that wasn't my best day climbing and we finished playing in some easy adherence slab routes at the afternoon. Even that, the little trekking inside this amazing limestone canyon, made me realize the super big potential that this place have, and also made me dream for new future projects. Sure I will return! :)

I would like to finish this post giving a big teşekkürler to all the people I met these days and made this 5 months the best of my life. Also I want to specially thank Gokçe and the people from the Ege climbing gym for letting me train there to don't finish my erasmus fat like a cow and letting me discover Kaynaklar, The "ankara climbing crew" and Emrah for the belays and the beta sharing, and Gamze also for the long belays, the "hobbit" methods sharing, and specially for showing me the fucking paradise that Aladaglar is. For all of you I wish the best luck in the world and I wish we will meet again any day even in Turkey or Catalonia, and  you know that you have a guide and an open house to come to climb in Catalonia.
So much thanks :)