Its been a long time since I writed my last post. After the Catalan Championship I've got injured so I even if I was feeling super strong I had to stop around 2 months. I really don't know what I really had on my finger, but the pain was there when I was trying hard routes so was better to take a little rest. Finally after a long time, and thanks to the "Saint Félix Obrador's" needle Theraphy I can finally say I'm totally recovered, pulling from little one and two finger pockets again without any fear!
Also during the recover I sended and tried routes everywhere, and also did one first ascent!
In cuenca I did Valle de rosas 8a/+ in two tires, Traga bonita traga 8a also in two at 40º, Natural mystic 7c+ in two, and flashed Endogamía 8a that probably is more like a 7c+.
In two different visits in Rodellar, I did "el corredor de la muerte" 8a, the king line "Mal de amores" 8a+ (Maybe 8a), and flashed "Pince sans Rire" 7b+. Also I was pretty close on Gladiator but finally I wasn't lucky enough.
In valdegovía, in two different visits I onsighted 3 7c's, Piernodoyuna (that Ines Flashed), 3 de marzo, Calamidad, and did Supercalamidad written as 8a but sincerely it's not more than a 7c/+ in my second go after missing the onsight as a fool. Also Aluminosis 8a+/8b in 5 tires and Kroma presas 8a in two (more like 7c+), went down!
martes, 14 de julio de 2015
lunes, 30 de marzo de 2015
Two weeks ago took place the 2015 Catalan Climbing Championship near my hometown, in Vic, so even if now i'm living in Madrid, I couldn't skip the oportunity of taking part on it. I went there with an injured finger, totally out of pressure, with the idea of only participating and meeting some friends that I didn't seen for a while, and surprising myself I passed the qualifications first tied with Ramonet, as we where the only ones to Top the three routes.
|Overview of the comp Photo: Quim Hernandez|
At the afternoon the finals started with an amazing crowd giving support and it made me get a little bit nervous, so when I when out of the isolation route I just tried to stay calm, climb as much high as I could and enjoy the try. I didn't know where the others fell exactly, the only thing I knew was that there were some of them FAR Stronger than me so my objective was to give the best of me.
|Initializing the second sloppy crux|
Just I started the route I was quite nervous because from the visualitzation round the holds seemed bad and sloppy, even that they where not that bad so at every move I was doing, better and more relaxed I was feeling so I passed the first half of the wall witout not much problems until an undercling rest. From there the route was getting progressively harder, with a hard hands matching on the second roof, follwed by a lateral dyno into a good reception hold. From there an easy clip, to start a second crux section where we had to match hands in a very sloppy volume, hold the body balance without slip, and continue with two undercling moves traverse on the very top. It was in the second undercling where I matched and I tried to clip, but I got that pumped that I couldn't.. I tried to shake hands there but I wasn't able to recover anything so I tried to dyno to the next hold but my hand got open and I fell.
Finally I got a 4th place, just with one hold of diference between the 3rd and 2nd! So the podium was really close! As we are used to Ramon won the competition without any problem, being the only one that passed this move falling taking the top hold, and showing the difference why he's world champion. So much to learn!
Now I'm just motivated to recover my finger and continue training harder for the next objectives!
More info and media about the comp:
Results Final round and Total:
lunes, 9 de marzo de 2015
It seems like all the training is really starting to pay off.
I spent my last two weekends between Chulilla and Cuenca, and I cannot be more happy with the results. I know that sometimes the results are not the best thing to look at, and normally I don't pay so much attention on what number I climb, but this two weekends I felt more stronger than ever in any strenght aspect I can think about!
|Starting the Upper Crux of "Nikita" 8b, Cuenca|
All Started two weeks ago with a two days trip to Chulilla with Moni, Alfon and Inés. It was my first time there and I got really amazed with the potential that this area has. At saturday all began quite well. We went to "la pared de enfrente" sector, and after warming up, I started the day onsighting "el Ramallar" 8a, that being realistic felt not much harder than a 7c, even if the route is a "King line". Convinced by Inés, I moved to "el Infierno" 8b, to put up the draws and give it an overview. The route looked like it was exactly my style, even that, just I started to climb I broke a hold on the entrance crux (which is clearly the hardest part). With a desesperate second go, I tried to solve the bouldery and crimpy entrance crux. Even that, I was unable to find the right beta, so we left the quickdraws on the route to return next day with the idea of taking them off.
At Sunday something went different. We went up to the sector just to take down the draws, but encouraged again by Inés I tried to solve the crux and Eureka! I finded the right beta! Just I went down and after resting a little bit, I gave it my 4th try and I sended "el Infierno", 8b!!!
Psyched with the good feelings, I decided to give an onsight try to "Entre dos Caminos" 8a, and after the most pumpy and redlining try of my life, I sended my first onsight 8a! Thanks for the patience!
Moving to the last weekend, we went to Cuenca and clearly I still had the luck on my side. At saturday with Guille and Paulo, I went to "el sombretivo" sector with the Idea of trying a route I was projecting my last two visits there. After a good first try, and a second try where I fell on the last move, I sended Nikita 8b on the 3rd go of the day! Really felt the difference between trying this line with good conditions! Thanks Guille for the photos!
Now time to move on, recover my quite damaged finger skin, and think over the Catalan Climbing Championship that will take place in two weeks near my hometown!!
viernes, 27 de febrero de 2015
It's been a long since I writed my last post. It doesn't mean I'm not climbing or anything. I've been more motivated than ever. The problem is that since I moved to Madrid I didn't had enough time to post anything until today.
I could write a long list of projects, routes and places I have stayed since I returned from Turkey. Sella, Cuenca, Ceüse, Margalef, Montgrony, Montserrat, Ariege ... All of them world class places to write from where you won't gonna return upset... Even that, it would get boring and long to tell all the trips one by one so I will skip it simply posting few photos from the routes I tried hehe ...
|Giving a close try on Encore 8a+, Ceüse|
|Sending Mediterráneo 8a, Sella|
|Testing my "slabclimber" skills on Pengim Penjam, 8c, Sant Miquel|
|Climbing Al-Jazeera 8a at night, Calders|
Just Stay Updated, for upcoming posts ;)